Once seen mainly as traditional attire, Ankara, Nigeria’s most iconic fabric, has now become a global fashion statement, commanding attention at parties, red carpets, and cultural events across the world.
With its vibrant colours, bold prints, and versatile designs, Ankara has transcended borders, increasingly embraced not only by Africans but also by international celebrities and fashion enthusiasts. From Lagos to London, Accra to Atlanta, it is redefining style while preserving cultural authenticity.
Speaking with THISDAY, Tobiloba Adegoke, Chief Executive Officer of OJ Inspired, said Ankara’s popularity lies in its ability to blend glamour with cultural storytelling.
“Ankara is more than fabric; it’s history, identity, and bold storytelling in colours and patterns. When a young woman in Miami or Toronto wears my dress to prom, she’s not just dressed up, she’s carrying a piece of Nigeria with her,” Adegoke explained.
He revealed that demand for his outfits has surged, especially through Instagram and TikTok.
“Five years ago, we were exporting in tens. Now, we’re shipping in hundreds every season. Once someone goes viral in Ankara, we get a flood of inquiries. The beauty is, no two pieces are alike. Each client gets a unique cultural statement,” he said.
“Ankara is no longer just for local Owambe parties. It’s for the world. Each piece carries the story of Africa: boldness, resilience, culture. When someone in London or Atlanta wears my dress, they’re not just making a fashion statement. They’re telling people, ‘This is who I am and where I come from.’”
For Adegoke, the transformation has been deeply personal:
“There was a time when people saw Ankara as ‘too African’ or not polished enough for international events. Today, it’s the opposite; people crave it because it’s authentic. The world is tired of copy-and-paste fashion. They want originality, and we’ve got that in abundance.”
He added that the diaspora, especially second-generation Africans, are driving demand.
“A lot of my international clients are young people who want their clothes to speak. They’ll say, ‘Make me a Cinderella dress, but make it African.’ And when the photos hit Instagram, everyone wants the same thing.”
Also speaking, David Omobolanle, CEO of DaStylz House of Fashion, described Ankara’s rise as nothing short of a fashion revolution.
“Nigerian fabrics are now competing with, and in many cases outshining, Western couture on the global stage,” he said.
“Our bold colours, intricate designs, and hand-finished detailing stand out at parties where everyone else is in predictable satin or silk.”
Omobolanle revealed that his company has shipped over 400 Ankara outfits abroad within the last 22 months, with prom dresses making up the bulk of international demand.
“Ankara’s strength lies in its adaptability. It works in any setting. I can design a ball gown, a cocktail dress, or even a corporate suit with Ankara, and it still makes a statement. The patterns are fearless, the colours command attention, and the cultural roots give it weight. Western fabrics often feel repetitive; Ankara is alive,” he explained.
“In New York, Chicago, and even smaller towns in Texas, teenagers are choosing Ankara gowns for their big night. Parents tell me their daughters win ‘Best Dressed’ awards, sometimes even prom queen titles, just because the dresses are so unique.”
Both Adegoke and Omobolanle agreed that Ankara’s global appeal lies in its versatility.
“It works for luxury events, red carpets, birthday dinners, even weddings,” Adegoke said. “And unlike mass-produced Western gowns, ours carry cultural depth. It’s elegance with identity.”
But the boom has also come with challenges. According to Omobolanle, shipping delays, high tariffs, and rising fabric costs often threaten profits.
“Sometimes I’m up at 3 am managing logistics to make sure a gown gets to California before prom night. It’s stressful, but when I see the videos of my clients twirling in Ankara, and of course, the Naira equivalent of the FX service charge, it’s worth it,” he said.
Despite the hurdles, the designers are optimistic about the future.
“Ankara has gone from local to global, and it’s unstoppable now,” Adegoke declared. “In the next five years, I believe we’ll see Ankara gowns on Hollywood red carpets and even the Met Gala.”
“Nigerian fabrics are no longer guests at the party, we’re becoming the life of the party,” Omobolanle added.
Sunday Ehigiator
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